The Lavers

The Lavers are situated between Matching and Moreton in the Epping Forest District within the catchment of Cripsey Brook. Entries in the Doomsday Book show the villages were already well established by 1086 and historic maps support this but the place name of Laver is believed to be old English. The exact origins are unclear but some sources suggest the word Laver as being derived from Lagu meaning ‘Flood Water’ and Faer meaning ‘Passing Crossing’. Both would make sense as through the narrow country lanes there are several fords crossing the tarmac and a number of upper tributaries to Cripsey Brook which forms a physical barrier to the south of the parishes. Traversing the footpaths through the fields there are vast unbroken views across the landscape and wide uninterrupted horizons. The sparsely populated villages throughout the Lavers are exquisitely picturesque and surrounded by the most beautiful countryside.

Starting at Moreton I head east along Church Road going past the C of E primary school on my left, turning into the field at the end of the school ground to follow public footpath number 5 (Moreton) around the perimeter of St Mary’s church. At the end of the churchyard I turn left to follow public footpath number 31 (Moreton) north for just over 580 metres though the centre of the field crossing a bridleway and continuing north east along public footpath number 2 (Moreton) for around 730 meters before coming out onto Little Laver Road. Here I turn left walking a short distance along the lane before turning left through the hedgerow beside a small derelict barn to follow public footpath number 22 (Moreton) for around 145 meters before turning right onto public footpath number 20 (Little Laver) which I follow north for around 710 meters. I exit onto a lane between Mill House and White Lodge where I turn right walking east along the lane for around 225 meters before turning left into the field to follow public footpath number 16 (Little Laver) for just under 370 meters bearing right at the end back out onto Little Laver Road, directly opposite the historic 15th century Little Laver Grange. Here I turn left along the lane then right into the grounds of St Mary’s church.

Little Laver

St Mary’s church at Little Laver is a beautiful small 14th century church, interestingly the font inside dates from the 12th century. There is no bell tower or bell cote here and the building is in an extremely isolated location. A large amount of 14th century features have survived here in wonderful condition alongside some 19th century alterations. Oddly for its age, the building does have a somewhat more modern feel on the inside looking at some of the architecture but a great many original features clearly remain here. There is a very welcoming feeling inside this incredibly well maintained and charming building. Little Laver has always been known to be a rural parish with its roots grounded heavily in agriculture. There are a number of surviving timber framed houses here, the earliest of which is thought to date to the 15th century. A number of fragments of moats also remain although far fewer than the neighbouring Lavers. There has been a windmill in Little Laver since the early 17th century. The most recent one dated from the early 19th century was a composite windmill which was built incorporating different techniques making it unique. This ceased operations in the late 1930’s and by 1947 was derelict. Eventually it was sadly demolished but pictures remain online. The nearby mill house survives as a quiant private residence.

Leaving here I turn right out of the churchyard walking north along the lane for just over 135 meters before turning left into a field through the gate to pick up public footpath number 22 (Little Laver) keeping the hedgerow to my left for around 210 meters before merging with public footpath number 4 (Little Laver) and again keeping the hedgerow to my left I continue west on this path for around 722 meters before exiting onto Watery Lane at Leather Bottle. Here I turn left heading south down the lane for around 90 meters to the bend, entering the field through a gap in the hedge on my right to pick up public footpath number 29 (High Laver) which I follow south just over 380 meters across the field past a small group of Oak trees then coming back out on the lane. Here I turn right heading south down the lane for around 750 meters to the next bend, entering the field on my right to pick up public footpath number 22 (High Laver) which I follow in a south westerly direction for around 516 meters passing through a small wooded plantation and then a large lake on my left, before crossing a field out onto Tilegate Road where I turn right into All Saint’s church. As a word of caution this field is regularly used by local dog walkers, sadly not all of whom have effective control of their pets.

High Laver

All Saint’s church at High Laver dates from the 12th century and many Norman features remain, in addition to many period features from the 14th century onwards. The church has a grand appearance mostly owing to the fact it stands on an area of higher ground in the village overlooking the surrounding countryside. This is a light and airy building which thanks to its slightly elevated position benefits from good access to natural daylight. Like St Mary’s church at Magdalen Laver some Roman brickwork has been used in the construction of the building. High Laver is an ancient rural parish which from the earliest records has been a heavily agricultural and arable farming community. Similarly to Magdalen Laver a number of original timber framed houses and barns survive here mostly from the 16th and 17th centuries. Some fragmented moats also survive which would have been sited around manor houses. Historic records show that roads were often in very poor condition here which frequently brought the local inhabitants of High Laver to the attention of the authorities. Although now the roads are in far better condition there are a number of fords crossing them through the parish which at times of heavy rainfall can make the lanes difficult to negotiate. Some notable figures have resided in the village including influential Philosopher John Locke who’s tomb can be found in the churchyard surrounded with railings and Samuel the 1st Baron of Masham and his wife Abigail who was a close friend of Queen Anne.

Leaving All Saint’s I turn left then immediately right to pick up public footpath number 26 (High Laver) which I follow south diagonally across the field for around 635 meters coming out onto Harlow Road just beside High Laver House. Here I turn right going past the house and continue along the road for around 300 meters before turning left onto public byway number 11 (Magdalen Laver) also known as Pole Lane, beside Start Farm which I follow for around three quarters of a mile. Near the end of this byway on the left is a large moat with a tall island in the middle which at one time would have been the site of a well protected medieval manor house. Around 420 yards after the moat I turn left to follow public footpath number 13 (Magdalen Laver) south for around 390 meters before turning left onto public footpath number 7 (Magdalen Laver) and into the rear of St Mary’s church.

Magdalen Laver

St Mary’s church in Magdalen Laver has an isolated feel and sits at the convergence of a number of public rights of way on a spur of high ground. The building dates from the 11th century and has seen a number of modernisations over the following centuries. Natural daylight streams in through every available window making this a very brightly lit church. Owing to the unusual amount of fragments of Roman brickwork and tiles present in the structure of the church it is strongly suspected that it may have been built on the site of a former Roman villa and constructed with re used building materials. Evidence of a burial ground was found in a field to the south east of the present church, suggesting that there may have been an older church in a different location. There are two bells inside the church, one of which is dated 1567 while the other is thought to be 14th century and curiously engraved in Lombardi – a type of Germanic language no longer used. Some stained glass is believed to survive from the 14th and 15th centuries. Magdalen Laver is another ancient and fairly small parish notable for its unusually large number of historic timber framed farm dwellings and moated properties, one of these buildings dates from the 14th century and many still contain original features. A number of other properties are thought to be named after families who lived in the area between the 13th and 15th centuries. As far back as records go Magdalen Laver has always been a rural parish centered in agriculture.

Leaving St Mary’s church from the front gate I cross the track and continue south east along public footpath number 7 (Magdalen Laver) for just over half a mile coming out onto Wind Hill. Here I turn left and walk east along the lane to the bend, before picking up public footpath number 31 (Magdalen Laver) on my right which I follow east for around 615 meters before turning right to follow public footpath number 32 (Magdalen Laver). I stay on this path for around half a mile heading south east, crossing a footbridge over a stream then continuing across a small field and exiting onto the corner of Church Road beside Gould Close. I am now back in the village of Moreton where this delightful countryside walk began.

From this most enjoyable walk through the Essex countryside, what stands out in addition to the beautiful scenery is the perfect isolation of the scattered villages here. The network of ancient pathways and byways linking these communities have survived for centuries and continue to provide important walking routes, most of which still follow the same original trajectories. The pathways themselves may not have changed much but it is surprising to find clues along them of long abandoned moated properties which would have once held great importance to the local area, now abandoned relics of the distant past. The many streams and the fords crossing the lanes are a further reminder that this breathtaking countryside and its ancient communities have long been acquainted with having to find a way to coexist with a landscape which can be as unpredictable as it is beautiful.

The Lavers

The Lavers

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The Lavers

The Lavers

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